Selvedge denim is worth the money when the cloth breaks in along your body and the seams stay put. The loom story does not matter if the rise is wrong.
We looked at shuttle-loom weights from a mid 13-ounce cloth up through denser cuts, and at tapers that leave room in the thigh without a cardboard hand or a crotch that blows out early.
Cloth and cut
Heavier denim holds a crease and takes longer to soften. Lighter cloth drapes sooner and shows wear faster. The cut decides whether you wear the pair. A roomy thigh with a clean taper is more useful than a skinny leg that fights you for a year.
- Check the rise sitting down, not only standing in the mirror.
- A little extra room through the thigh saves the crotch seam.
- Expect 13-ounce cloth to soften faster than a heavy loom-state jean.
- The selvedge ID is a finish, not proof the fit is right.
Buy the denim you can button on a normal morning. Break-in is not supposed to be a dare.
The first months
Wear them often and wash them less often than your nerves suggest, but do wash them. Dirt is what actually eats a crotch seam. Hang them by the hem or fold once. A hanger crease down the leg is hard to lose.
Spend the money on the weight and the rise you will keep. The shuttle loom is a bonus, not the reason.
